Trendstop brings Fashion United readers a look at some of the key collections to watch from Fall/Winter 2024 edition of Fashion Month.

Beyond the big fashion houses and established fashion stalwarts, emerging labels and young brands are growing in stature, striving to meet the key lifestyle needs of the modern consumer whilst taping into their core values and mind sets. Sustainability and celebrations of crafting heritage underscored many collections, alongside functional qualities and practical properties to advance and elevate everyday designs.

Duran Lantink

Titled ‘Duran-ski,’ Duran Lantink introduced a conceptual take on luxury winter sports and après skiwear. Extreme volumes and giant 80s-inspired padded shoulders exaggerated the proportions of outerwear, clinging bodysuits, padded shorts and knits. In line with the brand’s sustainable ethos, deadstock and vintage pieces provided the leather and velvet materials whilst recycled Lycra and wool offered a conscious alternative to traditional sports synthetics. Ski coats were repurposed as co-ords and discarded sheepskin became jackets and matching boots.

Benjamin Benmoyal

Paying tribute to the art of weaving and traditional craftsmanship, Benjamin Benmoyal’s immersive show saw artisans working their looms as models strode the runway. All-woven pieces showcased their skill as the designer’s ‘Yarns’ collection introduced oversized fringed jackets, voluminous dresses, and flowing floor length camisoles. Cassette tape was recycled into woven fabric and given a snakeskin effect alongside vibrant floral prints in chromatic colorways. A collaboration with Dr Martens yielded matching boots for a top-to-toe look.

Holzweiler

Inspired by the idea of growth through nature, Norwegian brand Holzweiler referenced the fungus structure Mycelia in both the title of the collection and the structures of the garments. Trailing threads on knitwear and scarves, or extended sleeves evoked Mycelia branches. An earthy color palette features muddy browns and stormy sky greys. In a nod to the brand’s home country as well as their London show location, floaty puffers offered a combination functionality and blanket-like coziness, for city or country wearability.