What it is:

If there was one item that has been particularly hard to avoid in recent months it is that of the cargo gilet, a look that is typically defined by its sleeveless shape and onslaught of fastenings and pockets – making it both fashionable and functional. While its history is largely tied into military wear and fisherman’s attire, the vest’s current relevance has been most recently linked to streetwear, in which brands leading the category have updated the garment in a more sports-inspired fashion. Now, it can also be found in a multitude of materials and colours, making it appealing for the trend-led crowd.

Why you’ll want it:

Streetwear is an influential category in fashion, with the ability to trickle down into other areas of the industry and cause impact on a wider scale. It is exactly this that can be seen with the ongoing rise of the cargo gilet, which was first adopted by leaders in the streetwear movement before making its way into the collections of high-luxury designers and premium brands. While it has already secured a firm foothold on the high street, the garment’s presence for SS24 ensures that it will not be going anywhere in the near future, with its status as a ‘must-have’ already cemented for the upcoming season.

Where we’ve seen it:

Many designers for SS24 took on the cargo gilet in its traditional form. At Feng Chen Wang and White Mountaineering this also included utilising recognisable camo prints, nodding to its military past, while at Prada, the classic shape and details remained intact, albeit with bright colourways to bring it into the modern day. For those looking to continue transforming the look, enlarging the silhouette seemed a popular choice. Études and Hed Mayner led the way here, both presenting exaggerated shapes that defied standard proportions, while at Odeeh and Officine Générale elongated hems were favoured.

How to style it:

In keeping with the streetwear theme, a cargo gilet can be paired with an oversized t-shirt or long-sleeved shirt, preferably with an eye-catching graphic on the front to draw the eye in. Add a pair of loose-fitting cargo pants or wide-legged jeans to bring the look together, and snazzy sneakers to finish the outfit off. If the wearer is looking for something more elevated, the piece can also be worn with a turtleneck knit or more formal button-up, which work well alongside a mini skater skirt in a contrasting shade and knee-high boots.

Now a world away from its roots in the military or the wardrobe of a fisherman, the cargo gilet has cemented its place in the trend-setters wardrobe, with its prominence on the runway only further reinstating where it will stand for the upcoming season. Fun prints, experimental details and a play on materials are things to look out for with this functional yet stylish garment.