FT NEWS

This month, the international audience witnesses an entire ready-to-wear season, spring/summer 2021, virtually through live streams and evocative look books. As for couture, immersive fashion films and private appointments pave the way forward as the pandemic continues to affect our social gatherings and by extension, the way we dress. While few design houses tread the path between function and fantasy, it is couturiers like Falguni and Shane Peacock who place their bets on the latter. Their design universe has always taken a maximalist route and for India Couture Week 2020, there was no looking back. In fact, the duo chose this season to foray back into working with traditional red, a non-negotiable hue on mood boards of most Indian brides. Titled ‘Marry Me in Jaipur’, the collection is dedicated to dream-worthy bridal wear and will be unveiled via a fashion film which attempts to “recreate the excitement from live runway shows into a new narrative form of showing couture.” We connect with Falguni and Shane to discuss their vision for the new season and the power of traditional Indian dressmaking.

On their creative vision for couture week 2020

“This time, our inspiration took us to the rich tapestry of heritage, culture, architectural marvels, abundant flora and fauna of the Pink City. Each design narrates a story of how Jaipur has always been a constant force that fuels our creative ingenuity,” Shane shares with us. Their contemporary lehengas are replete with asymmetrical layers that are followed by long, sweeping trails decorated with traditional arches, windows, grids, and chevron patterns. Inspired by architectural marvels and heritage palaces, the quintessential motifs seem to float over nude-coloured bodices and sheer blouses—a signature technique employed by the brand. Adding deep red to their usual palette of salmon pink, ivory, sage green and sunshine yellow, the pieces are elaborately detailed with pearls, crystals, sequins, feathers, and fine metallic threads. The collection continues to push the envelope in Indian wear silhouette with sleek-cut blouses with plunging necklines, petal and bishop sleeves and corset-like detailing, while faux plumage is added to new-age lehengas for added impact in true Falguni-Shane fashion.

On the new-age bride

Going back to infusing classic red in our bridal wear was a pure function of demand they concede. “The new-age bride is going back to traditional roots where the likes of heritage jewellery, heirloom sarees and classic red lehengas were on the top of her mind. We are keeping up with her,” Shane adds, as the comeback was driven by the high number of enquiries and requests to offer classic red for the wedding day. Up until now, the label was known for high-shine eveningwear for occasions such as receptions, sangeet ceremonies, cocktail parties and more. “In the era of the lockdown weddings, the brides have already compromised on the grand weddings by downsizing on every aspect. However, they are in no mood to compromise on their wedding ensemble, as their dream outfit will now be the highlight of their wedding,” he affirms that the new offering is focused on the main ceremony.

On thinking ahead of time

“The couture experience is going to become more democratic and accessible, which is great! Though we will miss the drama and excitement of a physical show, we enjoyed creating this disruptive format as well,” says Falguni. The film, titled ‘Spectacle Privé’, takes the audience behind the scenes to witness the laborious process behind each creation and “how couture comes to life for us,” she adds.

While the brand launched the click and shop format in the country a few years ago, a new component of virtual styling has been added for brides and clients to design and co-create outfits remotely. “Some of the other digital features that we have initiated are interactive videos, digital tagging, shoppable videos, and more.” Meanwhile, for now, a pre-recorded film is their choice of format to "tell the stories of our design concepts and how couture comes to life for us".