Everything you need to know about temple jewellery, from its history to its evolution

It is said that a south Indian bride isn’t completely dressed until she adds a prized piece of temple jewellery to her look—just ask Deepika Padukone, who opted for exquisitely crafted heritage pieces for her Konkani wedding ceremony last year. Usually served against the backdrop of stunning Kanjeevaram saris and prized brocades, the classic allure of temple jewellery has stood the test of time to serve as a modern-day mainstay in the bridal trousseau. Sunil Datwani, founder of Gehna Jewellers, reveals everything you need to know the history and cultural significance of this traditional jewellery style.

What is temple jewellery?

Temple jewellery is among the most artful of all jewellery types, and plays an essential role in the cultural heritage of the southern states in India. Embossed with depictions of gods and goddesses from the temples in south India, these simple-yet-artful pieces of work are sculpted from gold and silver, and have been making a comeback to the fashion mise en scène. Available as necklaces, bangles, earrings, rings, chokers and kamarbandhs, the contemporary update to this jewellery style now includes gemstones, diamonds and filigree work as well to accentuate individual pieces and make them look heavier.

What can you tell us about the origins and history of temple jewellery?

Temple jewellery is said to have originated in the Chola and Pandya dynasties. In the early years, this kind of jewellery was made out of precious metal donations made to temples in south India, and was meant to be reserved for adorning deities and royals. Temple dancers and devotees started to use replicas of such jewellery in their daily practices, with jewellers drawing inspiration from temple architecture, history and the beauty of deities. Over the course of time, temple jewellery started becoming a piece that evoked religious sentiment and thus, became an essential heirloom in every south Indian bride’s jewellery collection.

What is the procedure of crafting temple jewellery?

In its most basic form, this type of jewellery is made from gold or silver, without any gemstones or diamonds. The defining characteristic of temple jewellery is that each piece is handcrafted to perfection. Artisans usually take inspiration from the many temples in south India—the sculptures, illustrations and carvings at the temples are extremely intricate, and make for gorgeous additions to these pieces. The process starts with making dyes and moulds of motifs like temple tops, god idols, and leaves and so on. Gold and silver billets are rolled into flatter pieces, and then cut into strips and bent into the desired shape to make the mould. Gold foils, beaten metal and molten gold or dye is used to fill in the mould, depending on the specifications of the final piece. A lot of basic temple jewellery uses silver as the base, which is then coated with a gold foil. Once set, the pieces are sent for soldering and then finished with a layer of polish to keep the lustre of the piece intact. As easy as this sound, the craft that goes into making temple jewellery is very intricate and requires immense focus and a delicate hand. Depending on the intricacy of the piece, an individual piece could take anywhere between a couple of days or multiple months to create.

What are the most common motifs used in temple jewellery?

The very definition of temple jewellery means that the pieces seek inspiration from deities, temple tops and divine figurines in their most basic form. Goddess Lakshmi and other female deities are the most commonly used motifs by jewellers. In addition to these recurring choices, temple jewellery also includes elements such as leaves, trees, coins, bells, and so on.

How has the art of temple jewellery evolved over the years?

Initially, each piece of temple jewellery was crafted entirely by hand, from the mould to the filing to the finishing. However, owing to the advancements in the technology, modern jewellers have been opting to have certain elements of the procedure, such as the finishing and polishing, done by machines. This significantly reduces the time taken to craft temple jewellery pieces.

What is the cultural significance of temple jewellery for brides?

The nature of temple jewellery means that it invokes a sense of a divine presence in your life every time you wear the piece. Even in today’s times, brides are looking to add a small element of tradition to their big day. Temple jewellery serves as the perfect traditional touch to a contemporary ensemble. Since this kind of jewellery is crafted from vast quantities of gold, it also makes for a great investment in the bridal trousseau—even more so than diamonds.

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