Storing with neem leaves to darning— 5 designers share their best tips to care for heirloom saris

The bespoke Benarasi sari your great grandmother wore on her wedding day or the real zari work drape that has been in your family for generations—there are some wardrobe pieces that are valuable not just because of the sentiment attached to them, but also because of their exacting standard of craftsmanship. If you have been bequeathed such rare works of art, it’s not enough to simply revere them. The preservation and restoration of heirloom saris demands acute care, one that should be taken on as a serious sartorial responsibility. Not sure of the dos and don’ts? Vogue ropes in six expert designers and revivalists to share some tricks of the trade with us.

Anju Modi

Vintage heritage saris are generally woven in pure silver zari and coated with gold, making them heavier in weight. A common mistake is stacking them together—this is a big no, because your saris will eventually start tearing away from the folds, which then makes them difficult to restore. Instead, store them in individual cases wrapped in mulmul. Avoid tight folds as they lead to permanent creases, and bring them out every few months to change the folds. If the fabric is damaged to re-wear as a whole, artfully use the borders, pallu and motifs on a fresh pure fabric. Most of all, treasure and value these saris if you are lucky enough to own them—they are a rarity in today’s age!

Ritu Kumar

Seek the help of professional darners to fix or repair damages. If required, it should be lined with the softest of muslin fabric, dyed in the colour of the sari, to hold the original fragile fabric. If you don’t want to snip away at your vintage sari, use it as a statement dupatta or double pallu. Always store [your heritage saris] in muslin cloth or cotton bags after folding them inside out. Avoid polyester bags. If the sari is heavily embroidered, use a net lining to save the threadwork from getting tangled. Use dry neem leaves as they have anti-pesticidal and anti-fungal properties, but never keep naphthalene balls or insect repellents directly in contact with the sari—they discolour the zari work. In case of a stain, wash with cold water. If it’s an oil stain, use talcum powder to soak up the oil, followed by a mild soap and warm water wash.

 

Swati Agarwal, co-founder, Swati and Sunaina

If the fabric has given way, then your antique sari is beyond restoration. They can be cut and used as borders on your other saris, or fused at the back with a stronger fabric. If the colour has blotches, it can be re-dyed—but that could sometimes make the fabric weaker, so the risk of wearing out still remains. Store these heirlooms vertically, rolled on a plastic rod covered with tissue paper, inside out. The wrong side should be on top so that any weathering does not affect the zari. Sun them once a year in the mild winter sun. Leave them out to air under a fan overnight after wearing them before putting them away.

Palak Shah, CEO, Ekaya Banaras

People tend to bring out their heirloom saris only for special occasions, so these pieces remain folded and stored away for long periods. When they’re finally taken out, tarnished zari, cracks, discolouration or unevenness are often revealed. It’s important to avoid shortcuts and quick fixes, and to approach seasoned experts right away. Nobody understands the invisible nuances of an heirloom sari better than the weavers—they are adept at restoring old or damaged saris without altering the original essence of the piece. If you’re looking to repurpose your saris, turn them into lehengas and anarkalis or use them to embellish your blouses or sleeves. You can also frame these fabrics to create art with a vintage aesthetic.

K Radharaman, founder, CEO and principal designer, House of Angadi

Most people insist on preserving saris by not wearing them or keeping them away in boxes. This has an opposite effect. If the sari is intact, I encourage patrons to enjoy the heirloom for as long as they can. The only way to restore old saris is by approaching an expert darning technician. They use the threads from the sari itself to stitch the tears. Instead of cutting an old sari to make a new outfit, I advise framing it to create beautiful wall panels that preserve the fabric’s original glory. Another way is to donate it to a museum or a company like ours, where it can be preserved or recreated.

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