Fall/Winter 2023-24

Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a first look at the Fall/Winter 2023-24 men’s collections from Milan Fashion Week.

The men’s edition of Milan Fashion Week eschewed formality, bringing together the casual requirements of modern urban lifestyles with ideas around genderless dressing and expressive style. Industrial landscapes and workwear provided the basis, reinvented with rebellious graphic twists, inventive upcycling, and retro references.

Gucci

In the first outing without Alessandro Michele at the helm, Gucci’s ‘improvised and freestyled’ collection blended classic house codes, Tom Ford era references and vintage-inspired influences, with workwear aesthetics, genderless grunge, and reconfigured suiting. A casually thrown-together aesthetic, played out in the voluminous bombers and boilersuits, multifunctional tailoring with detachable elements, unpicked seam details, trouser-skirt hybrids and expressively mixed and matched sports, moto and knitwear pieces worn together.

Charles Jeffery Loverboy

Decamping from London to Milan, Charles Jeffrey brought the grit of the UK’s industrial hubs to the Italian runways. Pieces stamped with potato sacks accessorised with paraffin lamps were inspired by historical industrial works. Protest graphic prints and newspaper headlines adorned subverted city suiting with reimagined tartans adding to the rebellious feel. Jeffrey also incorporated upcycled trims and detailings gathered from the Thames River, adorning knitted pieces with stones, and found object debris.

Prada

Also taking inspiration from industrial, urban settings, Prada’s collection offered protective, pillowy outerwear and blue-collar workwear. Suede aprons became genderless dresses and steel flooring textures were transferred onto practical totes with water bottles inside. Cocooning tops and retro bombers offered extra comfort with padded, voluminous silhouettes whilst go-faster stripes and panelling introduced a further vintage sportswear element to classic outerwear pieces.