Tarun Tahiliani on How His Latest Collection Celebrates Indian Art Forms and Monuments

FT NEWS

Couturier Tarun Tahiliani presented his latest collection “The Reunion” at the ongoing FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2021 on October 7. The collection comprised 10 mini capsules inspired from numerous Indian arts forms and historical monuments and was a celebration of Indian textiles, crafts and culture. As expected from Tarun, the opulent ensembles in vivid colours and adorned with intricate embroideries came with a contemporary twist. The 10 diverse capsules interestingly named Molten Haveli, Temple Mauli, Pichwai, Chikankari, Pakeezagi, Divine Drapes, Sheesh Mahal, Rangrez, Brocade and Bridal married his craft-rich aesthetics with a refined approach. The clothes put the focus on the rich history and the timelessness of Indian crafts, a much needed impetus for the artisans community that was badly affected by the pandemic. 

The Reunion’ which constitutes an amalgamation of 10 mini capsule collections, draws inspiration from varied sources. To name a few, ‘Temple Mauli’ draws inspiration from the auspicious and breath-taking views outside the Badrinath temple along with the Rabari craft. The capsule collection which has been created on textiles such as silk, brocade and organza brings to the forefront, the use of a vivid colour palette. To name another one, the ‘Chikankari’ capsule is reminiscent of the tomb of I'timād-ud-Daulah in Agra, whose latticed carvings and inlay work formed the basis of the motifs in this particular collection. The ‘Pichwai’ collection takes inspiration from the ancient Indian paintings of Rajasthan. All the capsules have been curated, with the confluence of numerous art forms as well as historical monuments.

A lot of research and hard work has gone into this collection especially due to the hard times in which it is was curated. For instance, in February I visited the tomb of I'timād-ud-Daulah, Noor Jahan’s father in Agra. It was the forerunner to the Taj Mahal and in fact it is more finely detailed. As mentioned before, the Chikankari came out of this inspiration. For the Pichwai collection, when the first pandemic wave hit, we started to get painting on embroidered panels done to keep the master craftsmen employed and that is where this collection came from. We are working with a lot of textiles and weavers and that in itself is huge and endless.

A lot of textiles such as silk, brocade and organza have been incorporated in this collection, keeping in mind the upcoming wedding season wherein our customers which involves brides as well as their families are on the lookout for heavy pieces to don for numerous events and functions. They have also used brocade, tulle and crushed chanderi to create draped evening lehengas, occasion-wear and bridal looks with a modern twist.

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