Everything you need to know about jadau jewellery

FT NEWS

With deep roots in the royal era of fore, the prized craft of jadau jewellery holds a special place in our ethnic wardrobes. A jadau piece is considered as a prized possession in any Indian jewellery box, and is often lovingly passed down through generations as an heirloom.

What is jadau jewellery?

Jadau work was introduced in India by the Mughals, but practiced and perfected by the skilled craftsman of Rajasthan, which to date is considered as the hub of jadau jewellery. It is essentially a technique of jewellery-making wherein precious gemstones such as uncut diamonds, pearls, emeralds and rubies are embedded into gold. Gold is actually turned into a frame on which precious stones are studded without the use of any adhesive. Jadau derives its name from the colloquial term ‘jad’ which means to embed, and is commonly used in kundan, polki and meenakari jewellery. The design of the jewellery is made by a group of artisans called the Chiterias, followed by engraving and spacing using pliable gold, which is done by Ghaarias. Once the stones are naturally set in the gold casing, the enameller decorates the back of the jewellery in meenakari work.

How long can it take to make one piece of jadau jewellery?

The time to produce jadau jewellery varies, depending upon the piece that is being created. It’s a tedious process requiring utmost care and finesse. So while a smaller piece can be finished in a couple of days, an elaborate piece can actually take up to a few months to be ready.

What makes jadau jewellery so special?

It’s one of the oldest techniques of jewellery-making, and has an interesting history behind it. The Mughals introduced it to India, but this workmanship was perfected and made native by the artisans of Rajasthan and Gujarat. It requires a skilled and unique craftsmanship, which of course, makes it very compelling. The traditional form of jewellery is made without any interference of technology, which increases the man hours, and makes it extremely valuable. It’s pure hand work. If you ask me, it is surely a reminder of the rich cultural heritage of our country.

What should one keep in mind while investing in a jadau necklace?

Before investing in a jadau necklace, one should always check the purity of the gold being used. The jadau workmanship is usually done in 22-24k gold. The casing in which the stones are embedded should not be less than 22k gold. Another important point is to check if the stones are treated or natural. One should also be aware of the various treatments that are used to enhance the look of uncut diamonds and other precious and semi-precious stones in jadau jewellery.

How to take care of jadau jewellery?

It’s very delicate and needs to be handled with utmost care. The jewellery should be kept neatly wrapped in padded cloth box or an airtight container to minimise any kind of exposure to moisture and other pollutants. This helps to protect the look and feel of the jewellery. It should be the last thing you should wear when you’re getting ready, as perfumes and hairsprays can corrode the precious stones, and it should also be the very first thing you take off.

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