Is lab grown leather the future for the fashion industry?

FT NEWS

Leather has long been the mainstay of the luxury industry, worth an estimated US$400bn in total, annually—but is it beginning to lose its lustre? Increasing ethical and environmental concerns have undoubtedly led to the rise of vegan leather in recent years. And with many major brands moving away from fur (including the likes of Chanel, Burberry, Gucci and Prada), as well as exotic animal skins, experts say cow hide could be next on the list. 

It’s no secret that cattle rearing, responsible for an estimated 14.5 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions every year, is bad for the planet. While leather is often considered a byproduct or waste material created by the industry, critics argue the material is a built-in part of the business model.

It’s not just the carbon footprint that’s the concern: the tanning process —in which animal skins and hides are treated to produce leather—is also highly polluting. An estimated 80 to 90 per cent of leather is treated with chromium, a toxic chemical that can pollute waterways if not disposed of properly, and that can also harm the health of workers who use it. 

Currently, the majority of vegan leather is made from polyurethane—a plastic derived from fossil fuels, which of course has its own environmental problems. Plant-based alternatives such as Piñatex, or pineapple leather, do exist, but lab-grown leather is looking to disrupt the entire industry.

What is lab-grown leather?

While the term ‘lab grown’ may conjure up images of scientists gathered around a petri dish, the technology now is way past that point (the scale needed means it is not literally grown in a lab). But as the name suggests, lab-grown leathers do start with a process that’s been perfected by scientists. By beginning at the molecular level, the properties of the final product are more easily manipulated. 

Bolt Threads’ Mylo material, one of the most promising lab-grown leathers to emerge on the market, is produced by growing fungal cells into mycelium—or mushroom roots—and feeding it sawdust. This creates large sheets of fluffy foam, which is then processed and dyed, turning it into a leather-like material.

Looking to the future 

Getting the first lab-grown leather products on to the market is a huge first step.

With environmental concerns only set to increase, the prospect of materials that not only have less impact, but could actually benefit the planet, is hugely significantGiven its sustainability credentials—and its remarkable ability to replicate traditional leather—it’s looking quite possible.

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