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Planning for his India Couture Week 2020 collection was not business as usual for Amit Aggarwal. “It was a completely new experience. At the nascent stage, we all underwent a COVID-19 test before signing up for the project. Most meetings took place virtually,” the couturier discloses, recapping how the process of the FDCI’s first-ever digital edition of the show, in association with Hindustan Times, kicked off. “Honestly, since the get-go, the apprehension was not so much about experimenting. We knew that executing it would be the bigger challenge. From getting things together to being extra mindful about precautions and safety, things have changed since the coronavirus outbreak,” he goes on to add about the paradigm shift.

The challenging circumstances, however, yielded a creative conclusion for the New Delhi-based couturier. “Everyone involved in putting the collection together had a blast. In the end, the presentation of the show felt like a celebration—coming together and creating something unusual. I feel blessed to have a team where everyone rose to the occasion when someone was not well or too tired.”

The designer, who has always made a case for sustainability and usage of environmentally conscious materials, says being cooped up in his residence amidst the lockdown has really helped him slow down and reclaim parts of himself. “These times have made me more adaptive; adapting to change, to situations. I have been more attentive to absorb things that probably went unnoticed previously, instead of being a scavenger for newer things. Most importantly, I have sharpened my understanding of indigenous crafts, and the people who make it come to life. It has instilled a deeper meaning and appreciation for them in me more than ever before,” Aggarwal shares of his musings.

Amit Aggarwal’s blueprint on his maiden digital show

The downtime also provided him a chance to reconnect with nature, which eventually paved the path for his India Couture Week line. “I would go for walks every day at a nearby park. I noticed how nature continues to nurture us, and due to the slow down, nature has been able to breathe again. This freedom and lightness presented a promise of new beginnings, and that was the core inspiration for my new collection.” Colours borrowed from the ocean, leaves and even the sky dictate the palette for the collection, comprising statement lehengas and gowns. The range seamlessly underscores Aggarwal’s signature aesthetic of patching the past with the future. “The effort was to be conscious about the world at large. We have relied on techniques and materials that we often use, but updated with contemporary silhouettes. You’ll find recycled polymer, there’s restructuring, as well as modern craftsmanship. But every piece is layered with a feeling of lightness.”

Couture will always be a priority

Aggarwal reaffirms that we will continue to celebrate couture and the ‘Made in India’ label. “I think couture is a feeling; it’s like falling in love. The fact that we choose to wear couture on special occasions and milestone moments, whether a wedding or a 40th or 50th birthday, makes it timeless.” That said, the past few months have seen a change in the status quo. Fashion shows have taken on a digital avatar and shopping online is all part of the new normal. Aggarwal, too, planned the launch of his new e-commerce website in line with the debut of his 2020 couture collection. From saris and lehengas, to jackets and trousers, the website has it all, including the designer's prêt line.

He also strongly believes that brides will continue to have a keen eye for their wedding ensembles and their prudence. “A wedding is a lot to do with traditions, but it is also a lot to do with personal preferences and personality. I think brides will want to dress fearlessly, and embrace who they are with their ensembles.” Recalling a recent anecdote, he says, “In the last month, we had a client pick up some of the most elaborate outfits from our collection for their wedding. The lockdown did not influence the choices because their nuptials would always be a special occasion. For me it struck out because this is such a refreshing change to see women who are opinionated and independent about their choices.”

A tip in the favour of crafts and craftspeople

“There’s going to be conversations around a certain uniqueness and timelessness for post-pandemic dressing. I think the myth of trends is just going to go out of the window,” Aggarwal says. “People will start appreciating our heritage and crafts. They will favour couture that is classic, yet fused with something contemporary, and that’s the direction we have taken for our collection too.” While we revere about the crafts, what about the craft clusters that are often forgotten? “I think an important step in the future should not be just about empowering the hand, but also empowering the mind of the karigar. The way forward should include protecting traditional crafts for future generations, and also giving our artisans the canvas to create something new with their craft,” Aggarwal signs off.